FAQ
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Permanent Make-up

Generally
Pre & post tattoo skincare
The dermographer's job
Training
Pigments & materials

General information about permanent make-up 💄

The principle of dermopigmentation is simple. It involves introducing a pigment into the dermis using an electrical device called a “dermograph”. Specially designed for this purpose, the device is fitted with a stylet (handpiece) mounted on a sterile, single-use needle made of surgical steel.

The introduction of the pigment will modify the color of a defined area of skin, either for repair or purely aesthetic purposes.

Restorative (or medical) dermopigmentation encompasses medical procedures carried out to correct and reconstruct certain areas of the body following trauma, accidents or surgery (such as post-breast cancer mastectomy), as well as for the treatment of scars. The practice of medical dermopigmentation is reserved for doctors and nurses, acting under medical prescription (if the purpose is claimed to be medical). It is recognized as a beneficial therapeutic intervention.

It is also possible to undergo pigmentation for aesthetic purposes within the framework of permanent make-up.

This technique is applied to various parts of the face and body and can be likened to tattooing, although it is not permanent. It is mainly used to improve appearance, by enhancing lips, accentuating eyes, filling out eyebrows or creating freckles, for example. It can also be used to correct perceived imperfections, such as asymmetries, areas with little hair or unsuitable contours. 

No, “permanent” make-up is fortunately not a permanent solution (unlike body tattoos). It fades after several years, allowing you to change color or technique. It can last for several years:

Eyebrows: 1 to 2 years

> Even longer, depending on skin cell renewal and customer care.

Lips: 2 to 5 years

> Mucous membrane = no skin renewal, so longer wear

Eyes: 5 years or more

> No skin cell renewal, so tattoo lasts longer.

Areolas: 3 to 8 years

Trichopigmentation: 1 to 3 years

 However, this period will depend on various factors, such as the shades selected, your lifestyle, sun exposure (intense exposure can lead to faster pigment fading), the rate of cell renewal (slower regeneration, linked to aging, will prolong pigment wear) and the body's ability to phagocytose (digest) pigments.

For everyone, all ages (from 18 upwards) and all skin tones!

In certain cases, permanent make-up may not be recommended, especially if you are pregnant or taking certain medications. Before any service is rendered, all dermographers are required to complete a health questionnaire to ensure that they can pigment you.

Microblading (or microshading) is a manual method of introducing pigments into the skin using fine blades that cut into the skin surface. However, this technique does not always guarantee a precise depth of pigment implantation, which is why its duration is limited (3 to 6 months).

In contrast, the permanent make-up technique offers adjustable control over the depth of penetration (injection of pigments deeper into the skin), as well as the speed and regularity of subcutaneous needle movements. This approach enables pigments to be deposited at the ideal depth. The result is long-lasting, uniform and stable, fading naturally over time.

Microblading (or microshading) is a manual method of introducing pigments into the skin using fine blades that cut into the skin surface. However, this technique does not always guarantee a precise depth of pigment implantation, which is why its duration is limited (3 to 6 months).

In contrast, the permanent make-up technique offers adjustable control over the depth of penetration (injection of pigments deeper into the skin), as well as the speed and regularity of subcutaneous needle movements. This approach enables pigments to be deposited at the ideal depth. The result is long-lasting, uniform and stable, fading naturally over time.

1. Poor practitioner training and competence:

- Insufficient training can lead to poor results due to inadequate technical skills.

2. Incorrect analysis at initial consultation:

- Skin color

- Skin quality: thickness, texture, skin type (oily, dry, etc.)

- Client's age

- Lifestyle habits (sun exposure, chlorine, etc.)

- Health factors (smoking, medical history, previous aesthetic treatments)

- Sun and UV exposure

- Usual skin care routine (peels, creams, etc.)

3. Inappropriate pigmentation depth:

- If pigmentation is too superficial or too deep, it may affect the final result.

4. Inappropriate choice of needle:

- The use of an inappropriate needle can influence the quality and precision of pigmentation.

5. Incorrect technique:

- Incorrect technique can lead to irregular, blurred or undesirable results.

6. Inappropriate choice of pigment:

- The pigment chosen must match the customer's skin tone and needs to achieve a natural result.

7. Pigment quality:

- Poor-quality pigments can cause color, hold and safety problems.

Working with qualified practitioners, taking into account individual customer factors and using high-quality products is essential to ensure satisfactory pigmentation results.

As a customer, don't hesitate to ask the professional about his or her training, the type of pigment he or she uses, and so on. As a professional, don't hesitate to emphasize the safety of the BIOTIC Phocea pigments used.

Microblading (or microshading) is a manual method of introducing pigments into the skin using fine blades that cut into the skin surface. However, this technique does not always guarantee a precise depth of pigment implantation, which is why its duration is limited (3 to 6 months).

In contrast, the permanent make-up technique offers adjustable control over the depth of penetration (injection of pigments deeper into the skin), as well as the speed and regularity of subcutaneous needle movements. This approach enables pigments to be deposited at the ideal depth. The result is long-lasting, uniform and stable, fading naturally over time.

1. Poor practitioner training and competence:

- Insufficient training can lead to poor results due to inadequate technical skills.

2. Incorrect analysis at initial consultation:

- Skin color

- Skin quality: thickness, texture, skin type (oily, dry, etc.)

- Client's age

- Lifestyle habits (sun exposure, chlorine, etc.)

- Health factors (smoking, medical history, previous aesthetic treatments)

- Sun and UV exposure

- Usual skin care routine (peels, creams, etc.)

3. Inappropriate pigmentation depth:

- If pigmentation is too superficial or too deep, it may affect the final result.

4. Inappropriate choice of needle:

- The use of an inappropriate needle can influence the quality and precision of pigmentation.

5. Incorrect technique:

- Incorrect technique can lead to irregular, blurred or undesirable results.

6. Inappropriate choice of pigment:

- The pigment chosen must match the customer's skin tone and needs to achieve a natural result.

7. Pigment quality:

- Poor-quality pigments can cause color, hold and safety problems.

Working with qualified practitioners, taking into account individual customer factors and using high-quality products is essential to ensure satisfactory pigmentation results.

As a customer, don't hesitate to ask the professional about his or her training, the type of pigment he or she uses, and so on. As a professional, don't hesitate to emphasize the safety of the BIOTIC Phocea pigments used.

Pre & post-tattoo skincare 🩹

Immediately after the session, the color will appear more intense for about a week, then gradually lighten to the desired shade after about a month. On average, skin pigmentation lasts between two and four years. However, this period varies according to your skin type, the area treated, the initial shade chosen and your lifestyle. In general, lighter, more natural shades fade faster, and vice versa. Over time, the color of your make-up will gradually fade in a completely natural way. 

After the treatment, avoid moistening or applying make-up to the pigmented area for the first 48 hours. After a few days, scabs may form. It's important not to remove them, as this could alter the color of your make-up. Avoid activities such as steam baths, saunas, swimming pools and exposure to UV rays for the next 15 days. We recommend applying a healing cream such as Nutri-Cream or CicaBrows+ to promote healing and prevent the appearance of scabs.

Healing generally follows a two-stage process.

In the first stage, from day 1 to day 4, the primary scar is formed, with the detersion phase (removal of dead tissue debris, coagulated blood, fibrin, etc., which clogs up the wound bed and prevents healing). This is an essential prerequisite for healing.)

From days 4 to 15, the granulation tissue formation phase begins (phase in which fleshy dermal buds form, filling the wound).

From day 15 to 21 comes the epidermalization phase (the final phase which closes the healing process by covering the bud). Epithelial cells appear, the wound contracts and covers these cells, thus slowly closing the wound.

The second stage, the maturation phase of the primary scar, takes place between days 25 and 30. Consequently, following a creation, a touch-up can only be carried out after a delay of around 4 to 6 weeks.

We don't recommend this approach, as healing skin needs moisturizing to rebuild itself and minimize the risk of complications such as dryness, irritation and potential make-up color alterations.

Preparation
Pre-tattoo recommendations :
- No alcohol 24h/before
- No coffee 3h/before
- No aspirin 3 days before
- No bruises or sunburns
- No infections or active illnesses
- Have eaten and drunk well
- Have shaved the area the day before

Have taken your herpes medication if you have permanent lip make-up.

Maintenance
Post-tattoo recommendations:
- 10 days of Nutri-cream or CicaBrows+.
- 7 days without sweaty sports
- 7 days without swimming, spa or bathing
- 7 days without sun
- 30 days of sun cream

The sensation may vary according to the areas treated, but it remains bearable. The depth of the needle is not as great as in body/artistic tattooing.

It's important to note that applying an anesthetic yourself before pigmentation is not recommended, unless prescribed by a physician. As a general rule, however, permanent make-up is performed without anesthetic.

Anesthetics can only be used by a physician. However, your client can obtain the following creams on prescription from her doctor:

      - EMLA (the best known and prescribed by doctors)

      - PLIAGLISS

      - ANESDERM

          - The current state of color

          - Correction technique

          - Skin type

          - Fitzpatrick level

          - Color selection

          - Choice of technical steps

          - Number of sessions required

          - Choice of needles

To understand and grasp the basics of permanent make-up corrections, a training course is available :ULTIMATE CORRECTION 

It's best to use Cicabrows+ for eyebrows. It offers the same nourishing properties as Nutri-Cream, while avoiding a shiny or greasy effect on the skin. Nutri-Cream, on the other hand, is recommended for all other pigmentations.

Vaseline should not be used for healing, as it is derived from petroleum. We recommend the use of specific, safe and natural products to promote skin healing after pigmentation. We recommend Nutri-cream for all parts of the body or Cicabrows+ for eyebrows.

BIOTIC Phocea has always produced Clean and Safe products that respect your skin.

To apply Nutri-cream, we recommend taking a single-use cotton bud, dipping it into the jar (to avoid contamination of the jar), then applying the product to the tattooed area using your finger or the cotton bud.

The use of Nutri-cream during eye pigmentation (for eyeliner) has been tested and we therefore recommend its use to improve and facilitate healing in this area.

Yes, we recommend using Nutri-cream on pigmented areas such as the areola and scalp. 

It's a good idea to include the 4ml size of Nutri-Cream or a Cicabrows+ in the price of the service, and to offer the rest of the products in the Sublim'Ink® range for sale. In this way, you can ensure that your customer has the right product for the freshly pigmented area, and therefore access to post-tattoo care.

The dermographer's job 🖊️

No, there is no specific state diploma for permanent make-up. However, at the end of the training course, a certificate of competence will be issued if the required criteria are met. If not, a certificate of attendance can be provided. If necessary, it will be possible to take part in one or two additional days to reach the desired level and acquire total confidence in independent practice.

Please note that it is compulsory to attend a 3-day Hygiene & Sanitation training course before being able to practice. So it's vital to choose a reputable training center before taking the plunge.

📩 Contact us for information on our training courses

         - Take a 3-day health and hygiene training course (2 days e-learning / 1 day face-to-face) + initial training in Permanent Make-up.

         - Register with the Agences Régionales de Santé (ARS).

         - Take out civil liability insurance for your activity

         - Have a defined legal status to be able to declare your activity

 Working as a dermographer in the field of permanent make-up requires specific skills and essential professional qualities:

- Meticulousness: Following precise protocols is essential, as techniques evolve over time. Maintaining a methodical approach is crucial to guaranteeing high-quality results.

- Exigence: Aspire to offer the best for your customers, have an eye for detail and apply unwavering rigor. Constantly strive to improve your work and update your skills through advanced training courses.

- Patience and perseverance: Understanding customers' concerns and questions during their first pigmentation session is crucial. As a dermographer, it's important to be patient and provide clear explanations of the session process and post-pigmentation recommendations.

- Artistic sense: Although permanent make-up is a technical discipline, it also requires artistic sensitivity to create aesthetic, harmonious and natural results.

- Effective communication: Be able to clearly explain procedures, post-pigmentation care and respond to customer concerns in an understandable and reassuring way.

- Ongoing training: Be open to continuous learning and updating of skills to keep abreast of the latest trends, techniques and safety standards in the field of permanent make-up.

Yes, the permanent make-up market is experiencing significant growth, with considerable demand. Many institutes have seized this opportunity and are offering these services. Permanent make-up services are highly profitable and can sustain an institute's business throughout the year. Dermopigmentation is also a way of standing out in the market and attracting new types of customer. It's a fast-growing and buoyant sector, which is why it's so important to undergo quality training in a center that complies with market standards and requirements, and uses the correct pigments.

Training center 👩‍🎓

We work with funding bodies such as Opco, FAFCEA, Pôle emploi and Fifpl. The choice will depend on your current situation and your financing possibilities.

You can contact Inès FRIHI who will be your privileged contact to request information or register for our training courses:

- 📞 By phone: 04 91 53 13 24

- 📧 By email: formation@biotic.fr

- 📄 Via our contact form

Yes, in France, it's an essential prerequisite for practicing dermopigmentation in full compliance, and for being able to declare your company to the Agence Régionale de Santé (ARS). This is a legal obligation, the content of which is regulated and cannot be modified by the training center.

 Absolutely, BIOTIC Phocea offers ongoing follow-up after training. We have set up a dedicated e-mail address (myconseil@biotic.fr) so that our trainees can communicate directly with our trainers in the event of technical questions or difficulties encountered during their pigmentations. In addition, we have set up various forums on social networks (Facebook) where all participants can exchange ideas and ask questions directly to our team. Your success and progress are important to us, and we're here to support you every step of the way.

Our training center is Qualiopi certified. As a reminder, Qualiopi certification attests that training organizations comply with quality criteria defined by the French government, thus guaranteeing the relevance and effectiveness of their services for learners. We undergo regular audits to assess the ongoing compliance of our teaching and administrative practices.

Pigments & materials 📏

Organic pigments, on the one hand, are all of synthetic origin, while mineral pigments, on the other hand, can be of synthetic origin, but are mostly of natural origin.

As far as coverage is concerned, organic pigments are rather transparent, unlike mineral pigments, which have real tinting strength and high covering power. Organic pigments offer bright, vivid colors, while mineral pigments offer matte tones.

In terms of stability, organic pigments tend to gradually fade to grayish tones due to their carbon-based origin, whereas mineral pigments, such as titanium dioxide (white) or chromium oxide (green), can be extremely stable. In terms of staying power over time and on the skin, organic pigments tend to fade more quickly, while mineral pigments have a much longer lifespan. Consequently, when using organic pigments, it's common to mix them with more stable elements, such as minerals, to extend their durability. It should be noted that organic pigments may contain potentially carcinogenic aromatic compounds, which could be released when the molecules degrade over time or when a third-party laser is used.

⏯️ Watch our video on this subject

Our pigments are made from a subtle blend of organic and inorganic raw materials, giving BIOTIC Phocea pigments optimum quality.

Because of their larger particle size (>20 / 50 microns), 100% organic pigments cannot be removed by laser. In addition, they can release potentially hazardous aromatic amines.

In addition, organic pigments tend to develop grey tones over time.

Several factors can influence the shade of a pigment after pigmentation:

- Is the precise analysis of the client's skin and habits, including the Fitzpatrick classification (skin phototype level), carried out correctly?

- Has the client followed pre- and post-tattoo care, in particular avoiding seawater and sun exposure, which is extremely important?

- The definitive color of the pigment only appears after about 4 weeks.

- After pigmentation, about 30% of the initial pigment is lost.

- The use of warm pigments on warm (pale) skin can lead to a change in shade.

- It is crucial to use a stabilizer and to properly inform your customers about post-pigmentation care, including sun and UV avoidance, application of post-tattoo cream, and no exposure to water for 24 hours.

- Pigment color stabilization can also be achieved by mixing a small amount of the opposite shade (e.g., mixing a cool pigment into a warm pigment) to prevent the shade from turning orange, especially on fair skin.

- However, the most frequent cause of a color shift is often linked to the choice of a pigment that is not adapted to the client's phenotype and/or failure to follow post-tattoo care.

The booster is an aid for dermographers who need it. The speed with which the pigment sets in the skin depends on the equipment used and the dermographer's support. Not everyone works with the same support. We therefore leave it up to each professional to decide whether or not to use this product, and do not automatically include it in our formulas.

We usually recommend mixing 2 drops of stabilizer with 8 drops of pigment, but the professional may need to add more or less, depending on the desired result (cooler or warmer) and the client's skin tone. Integrating it directly into the pigment would take away the freedom to adapt the shade to each customer. Also, our Signature® by BIOTIC Phocea range of pigments do not require stabilizers. They have been developed for professionals who do not wish to blend.

Our Airless Color® pigments offer several distinct advantages:

- optimal sterility: thanks to their packaging (0% air system / “airless”). The bottle eliminates any risk of contamination (proven over 5 months) between each use, unlike eye drop packaging, which is sterile only when opened (once opened, sterility is no longer guaranteed).

- no preservatives or petrochemical derivatives.

- maximum concentration: Its concentrated formulation enables rapid absorption by the skin for fast, effective results.

- product savings: The piston system delivers pigment right to the end, guaranteeing optimal use (no loss of product at the end).

As a manufacturer, we have the capacity to develop new shades rapidly. Our status as a manufacturer gives us great flexibility and responsiveness.

If you have any suggestions for new shades you'd like to see added to our range, we encourage you to let us know. Our Research and Development department is constantly on the lookout for new products to meet your expectations and requirements.

However, we prefer not to blindly follow excessively eccentric trends with very bright colors. Our priority is to maintain permanent make-up as a long-term beautification practice, resisting the fluctuations of ephemeral fashions.

We regularly introduce new shades to the market (including new shades launched this year). At present, our catalog already offers a wide selection of over a hundred different shades to suit your needs.

However, if you can't find what you're looking for in our catalog, please don't hesitate to contact us for white-label pigment creation.

📩 Contact form for custom pigment creation

It's true that foreign pigments may seem cheaper. However, it is important to note that their lower cost may be associated with safety and quality issues. Indeed, many foreign pigments are not subject to strict controls on entry into Europe, which can pose health risks for users.

What's more, some foreign pigments contain high levels of alcohol, which tends to evaporate over time. In comparison, BIOTIC Phocea pigments contain little alcohol, giving them greater stability over time.

Although foreign pigments may seem more economical at first glance, it's important to consider other factors. For example, with a 13 ml bottle of BIOTIC Phocea pigment, you can achieve around 50 lip pigments, whereas with an American pigment, you'll only achieve around 10. This shows that BIOTIC Phocea pigments are far more cost-effective, despite the potentially higher initial cost.

The priority is product safety, quality and performance, which justifies the cost of BIOTIC Phocea pigments.

It is technically possible to create artistic tattoos with our pigments.

Our pigments can be used to create artistic tattoos. Their composition is superior to that of tattoo inks, which considerably reduces the risk of allergies. However, it's important to note that the durability of artistic tattoos created with our pigments is far less than that of traditional tattoo inks. In other words, the tattoo will fade over time.

We recommend that you consult an experienced professional before deciding to use our pigments for artistic tattoos, to understand the specific advantages and limitations of this type of use.

Another question ?

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